The Complete
Guide to Denali Climbing Injury and Illness
|
|
Surviving Denali
by Jonathan Waterman
Who must have this book: Anyone who is going
to climb Denali.
Who should have this book: Anyone who has any
interest in mountain climbing.
ISBN: 0930410483
|
This
book has thoroughly convinced me that this flatlander should never
go above 7,000 feet. If you are the type that can’t keep themselves
from going above 7000 feet should get this book. If you are the type
that needs to go above 14,000 feet or you are going to try to summit
on Denali, you must get this book. Seriously. If you need proof that
you need this book, here’s what Bradford Washburn
has to say about this book.
That’s a pretty good endorsement coming from one of the greatest
names associated with the mountain, but it is deserved. Jonathan Waterman
came up with the idea for this book when he got frustrated with the
growing numbers of injuries and costly rescues that were occuring
on the mountain. Most of the injuries, illnesses, and deaths could
have been prevented with a little common sense and many of the rescues
were unnecessary if climbers were more self-sufficient. The statistics
show that he may have been successful in preventing some of the incidents.
Since this book has been in print, the percentage of climbers injured
or lifted off the mountain has gone down.
In this well illustrated book, Waterman tells you what everyone should
know when attempting the mountain. Get yourself in shape. Be properly
equipped. Take care of yourself on the mountain. Keep hydrated and
fed. Put your life and health ahead of reaching the summit. Keep the
group together. Be self sufficient. And much more.
The book reads well and is interesting to anyone, not just die hard
climbers. Even looking up at Denali from Wonder Lake was more thrilling
after reading the book, understanding what was going on up on the
peak.
Overview
The book is laid out with a chapter for each of the
major mishap that can happen to a Denali climber. The first chapter
talks about the pioneer climbers and how they handled their injuries
and illnesses. In Waterman’s views, the early pioneering climbers
did it right. They had only themselves to depend on, and in some ways
that helped them make the right decisions on the the mountain. Today
many climbers assume that their climbing permit comes with a free
helicopter rescue.
The second and third chapters go over the severest forms of altitude,
HAPE and HACE. These two conditions, High Altitude Pulmonary Edema
and High Altitude Cerebral Edema are the two big things that can hit
anyone randomly but are also the most preventable and curable. Just
gain altitude slowly and at the first signs of either conditions,
immediately start descending.
The fourth chapter is about frostbite and tells you how to take care
of yourself to limit the risks. After that four chapters go over the
accidental injuries that can occur from climbing falls, crevasse falls,
avalanches, and other unusual situations. The final two chapters go
over how to prepare for the climb and the drugs that can be used on
the mountain to prevent or treat altitude sicknesses.
By the end of the book anyone thinking about the climb will have a
good idea of what possibilities is ahead for them. Those not planning
on climbing will just have that much more respect for those who do
climb Denali.
Author
Jonathan Waterman has a lot of Denali Experience. He
has climbed the West Rib and guided up the West Buttress, but most
of his experience came while working as a National Parks mountaineering
ranger on Denali. He has been there first hand on many life threatening
rescues on the mountain. His books include High Alaska,
Surviving Denali
and In the Shadow of Denali.
Other books by the Author
